“Streets full of water. Please advise”: Unimpressed Visitors to Venice

Venice throws everything at the visitor – tottering ornate Gothic palazzi, metres of glittering gold mosaic, hours of meandering alleys for the romantic and pompous overpriced cafes for the extravagant. But some visitors remain just a little underwhelmed. Here are some of the greatest Venice cynics. A Moated Imprisonment of a Town Stinking canals, unstable… Read More “Streets full of water. Please advise”: Unimpressed Visitors to Venice

Hidden Venice: How to be an (Almost) Exclusive Guest at a Palazzo on the Grand Canal

In ‘City of Falling Angels’, Berendt writes about a period of La Serenissima when she was in her last golden moments. The ornate palazzi of the Canale Grande were either thrown open for dazzling parties where guests arrived in gondole and light spilled from the windows onto the dark water outside; or were beginning their inevitable decline… Read More Hidden Venice: How to be an (Almost) Exclusive Guest at a Palazzo on the Grand Canal

Hidden Venice: The Most Serene of the Serenissima

For a tourist Venice, dubbed the Serenissima, is not a particularly serene experience. Most tourists will find themselves frustratedly scanning maps for streets names that don’t seem to exist, because signs are written in dialect and maps in Italian. And even if the names did correspond the warren of dark alleyways would still be unnavigable.… Read More Hidden Venice: The Most Serene of the Serenissima

Hidden Venice: Fondamenta delle Zattere

Le Zattere, or Fondamenta delle Zattere, is a wide promenade along the water’s edge, situated at the furthest end of the Dorsoduro quarter. At lunchtime the sun beats down unencumbered on groups of students huddled in the shade, elegant waterside restaurants and a scintillating stretch of water. Le Zattere runs parallel with the Giudecca island,… Read More Hidden Venice: Fondamenta delle Zattere